By Mansura Bustanpour

Geography

The Karkas Mountain on the east of the Anarbar River basin slopes onto vast dry plains in which Qom and Kashan are situated, at an elevation of 900 m, with a distance of 100 km apart. The distance is covered with a gentle slope of salt and gypsum deposits and volcanic lava. The plains of Qom are irrigated by the River Anarbar, which rises in the Golpayegani highlands, containing salty water in the upper parts.

In ancient times, Qom was divided into two areas. The larger area, called Manijal, with a native Zoroastrian population, formed the main part of Qom. The smaller area, called Ramandan, on the east bank of the river, was inhabited by Arabs from the Asha'ri tribe.

After the victory of the Islamic Revolution of Iran and the passing away of Imam Khomeini (RA), Qom became a province. The province has an area of 10,740 sq km, situated in a low plain, bounded on the west by the Kharaqan Mountain, and on the southwest by the Alvand mountain range. On the north, Qom is bounded by Tehran province; on the north, west and southwest, by Saveh, Tafrish, Ashtian, Mahallat and Dili; and on the east and southeast by Kashan, Dashte Kavir (Salt Desert) and the Salt Lake.

Qom is 140 km from Tehran, with a desert climate. The extremes of temperature, between the coldest day in winter and the warmest day in summer, is 75 degrees centigrade. Its population is about 900,000.

In ancient times, Iranian and Arab inhabitants lived in districts of their own: Sefideh, Sar Bazaar, Sar Pol, Durshahr, Alachu and Jassimia. Nomadic people built dwellings on the banks of Anarbar River. They called these dwellings Kumeh. There were many ponds in the area which Arabs called Kumkumeh. After the Islamic conquest and the mixing of Persian and Arabic languages, the word `Kumeh' became `Qom'.

Handicrafts and Farm Products of Qom

In the past, the silk and carpet-weaving, pottery, glass and crystal industries were prosperous. Felting and sohan making (a kind of sweet) are also among the specialties of Qom.

Farm products of Qom have in the past been onions and caraway seeds, saffron, pomegranates, figs, almonds and mulberry. Winter crops include wheat and barley, while summer crops include cotton, castor-oil plant, melon, watermelon, and cucumber. At present, Qom's products are pomegranates, figs, almonds and grains.

Historical Monuments in Qom

In Qom there are many historical monuments whose architecture depicts the religious beliefs of people and social changes which have occurred in each historical era.

On the outskirts of Qom there are the ruins of magnificent fire-temples and figures carved in stone. The existing monuments in Qom, with conical domes, picturesque glazed tiles and stucco decorations give a magnificent view to the city. These sights include the green-domed garden, the mausoleum of the Safavid kings. This building is in eastern Qom, near the gateway to Kashan.

Another building, important until the 9th century, was the Khaniqah (Sufi) Khajeh Ali Safi, outside the Kangan Gateway. [Khaniqah is a building in which Sufi dervishes perform their religious rites.]

The dam built across the Safi-Abad River is a landmark. The Holy Shrine of Hazrat Ma'sumah (SA) is the most magnificent building in Qom, with porticos, cloister, beautiful glazed tiles and mirrors.

Other historical monuments are the Jamkaran, Imam Hassan Askari, Juma' and A'azam mosques. There are also beautiful domes named Ali ibn Jafar (Dar-i-Behesht), Chehel Dukhtaran, Ahmed ibn Qassem, Khak Faraj, Imamzadeh Ibrahim and Mussa ibn Jafar.

Other buildings are: Qali Sangi, Hashti Building, Qods Mussalla (for Friday Prayers), Ilmieh, Feizieh, Hujjatieh and Massumieh Madressa, Ayatollah Mara'shi Library, and the Center for Theological Studies.

Qom Centers for Theological Studies

Since the first century, A.H., Qom has been a center for religious studies. Many well-known mullahs and religious scholars have lived there.

Since the era of the Safavid dynasty, many madressa (schools) with pious foundations have been built. Some madressa were also built during the Qajar dynasty in mid-13th century, A.H. Mirza Abulqasem Qommi ran a Center for Theological Studies where great scholars studied.

In 1340, A.H., Ayatollah Sheikh Abdul-Karim Hairi came from Arak to Qom at the invitation of Mirza Muhammad Feiz Qummi. With his arrival, other scholars also came to Qom and the Center for Religious Studies was established.

After Ayatollah Hairi passed away in 1315, A.H., the center was run by Ayatollah Feiz and Ayatollah Khansari. In 1316, A.H., Hajji Aqa Burujerdi Tabataba'i was invited to Qom and the Center for Theological Studies thrived. Theological students grew in number, now between 5,000 and 7,000.

After the death of Ayatollah Burujerdi, the center was run by the late Ayatollah Khomeini (RA), Ayatollah Mara'shi and others. Now, the Qom Center for Theological Studies has great power; theological students from all over the world come here to study.

The Holy Shrine of Hazrat Ma'sumah (SA)

Over the grave of Hazrat Ma'sumah (SA) in the Babilan in Qom, a canopy was erected by the sons of Sa'ad Ash'ari. After a time, Sayyida Zeinab, the daughter of Imam Muhammad Taqi (AS), the Ninth Imam of the Shi'as, came to Qom and built a humble dome over the grave. When she died she was also buried under the same dome.

Other small domes and tombs were also built for the descendants of the Imams. Three hundred years later, Shah Begum, daughter of Imam Beig, had a magnificent dome built in place of the small, humble one. The new dome is decorated on the inside with golden and azure designs and, on the outside, with glazed tiles. The dome was octagonal at its base, remaining unchanged for many years until, in 925 A.H., Shah Ismail of the Safavid dynasty had a veranda built on the northern flank of the building.

In 939 A.H., another veranda was built. Thus, the Feizieh

Madressa was annexed to the building of the shrine. During the reigns of other Safavid kings, more verandas were built. In 950 A.H., Shah Tahmasb I ordered the building of a beautiful shrine decorated with glazed tiles, and another shrine of silver on the tomb of Hazrat Ma'sumah (SA).

The courtyard for women on the south flank of the shrine was built in 107 A.H.. There was also a shrine built of white steel, covered with silver plates. In 1215 A.H., the ceiling of the shrine was decorated with mirrors and muqaranan. Golden adobes superseded the tile decorations in 1218 A.H.

In the reign of the Qajar kings the Balasar Mosque was built and the old courtyard developed, plus minarets for Muezzins.

Bibliography:

1- Iranshahr Journal vol.2 1343 Persian Calendar (1964 A.D.).

2- Qom in the 9th Century (A.H.), by Sayyid H. Moddaress Tabatabaie'.

3- History of Qom, by Ali Davani.

4- A Guide to Qom, by Rashid Yasami, 1374 (1995 A.D.).

5- Iranzamin Journal, Special Issue on Qom, 1371 (1992).